The Surfing Life
You never realize how the pieces of your life are fitting together as it’s happening. Then one day, you find yourself swimming through a world-class wave making photos of the world’s best surfers, and you take stock of how you got there. So many little things in my life, from where I was born to what my dad did for work to what sports I played in high school, led me to a career that seemed almost destined for me. Sunset in Mexico to end an amazing day together. It is these moments in between that really create memories and friendships that last a lifetime. Growing up in Hawaii, my entire childhood revolved around the water. When I was a kid, my parents would pack up towels, sunscreen and enough snacks to last us an entire day at the beach, and I would play in the water until sunset, learning to navigate the currents and waves. As I grew up, my teenage social life continued to revolve around the ocean. After school and on weekends, there was only one plan: the beach. We’d go out in ...